Deedle&Thread

Sewing, Beading, Inspiration and More.

Butterick 5526 Coral Shirt & Loes Hinse Gore Skirt

Tried and True Button Down Simplicity 5526

Tried and True Button Down Shirt
Simplicity 5526

This is a three part post containing a me-made shirt, skirt and necklace.  To start, coral is one of my favorite colors because it can be worn in the southwest year round.   Since i am heavily motivated to create by seeing color, when I saw this light weight fabric, I knew it would be turned into something I would wear as a topper.   It goes with my many dark colored skirts and pants.  In this case, I paired it with one of my TNT shirt patterns, Butterick 5526.   The TNT skirt pattern is thye Gore Skirt, Loes Hinse (pronounced ‘Loose Hin-sah’).

When it comes to a classic button down shirt, this Butterick has been a go-to pattern.  I love all of the styles offered in this pattern. This shirt is View C with the length of A &D.  I have made View D before (pre-blog) and love it as well.  Seeing the comeback of ruffles in recent fashion, the ruffle of View E would be a great addition to my wardrobe.

Tried and True Butterick 5526

Tried and True Butterick 5526

I deviated from my normal direction to always make shirts with bust darts or princess seams.   View C  has neither options for bust fitting, but still seems to bit me well anyway.  It also serves as a shirt-jacket worn open with a tank.

The fabric is a  cotton poly blend.  I found it at my local mill end store and I think it is a 60%/40% mix.  It doesn’t wrinkle much (except when I tie it at the waist) and I’m hoping won’t show wear after washing.  Here is more about the beaded necklace.

Baubles galore

Pantone Spring 2017 Necklace

coralshirt2img_4623

I like to use mother of pearl buttons often on my shirts because I consider them to be a neutral color, are thin, and can be both dressy or casual.

Six Gore Skirt from Loes Hinse

Six Gore Skirt from Loes Hinse

As I have written about in previous posts here, I’m partial to the Loes Hinse patterns since attending the seminar she offers with her business partner, Sharon Lyon of Casual Elegance Fabrics.   Sharon writes a newsletter called ‘The Look’, which explains how to use the patterns and fabrics to create a wardrobe suitable for many lifestyles.  If interested, you can sign up for the newsletter here.

I have lost count of how many I have made of this skirt.   The fabric is from my stash and was purchased years ago from a fabric store that is no longer with us. 🙁  It is a great skirt to wear in the summer, can be shortened  from the waist, and can be styled with boots in the cooler months.  I did view D which has six panels and six triangle-shaped gores. ( What’s a gore, you ask?   It is the triangle piece found near the hemline to provide fullness.  See View A, D and E.).

Line Drawings, Gore Skirt Loes Hinse

Line Drawings, Gore Skirt
Loes Hinse

SEWING TIP:  I learned THE BEST tip from Loes on inserting gores.

1.)  Instead of creating the intersection in which the gore must be inserted, instead, sew the small gore to one side of the longer skirt panel piece.

2.)  Serge or zig zag seam to clean finish

3.) Press seam toward gore.

4.) Pin another longer skirt panel to the gore and skirt panel you just finished.

4.) Pin and sew the next gore to THAT piece, and so on.  (First skirt panel, gore, second skirt panel, gore, etc.)  Make sure stitching includes gore at the intersection where all three pieces meet.

5.)  Repeat until all longer skirt panels have been sewn to their corresponding gores.

EASY PEAZY!!

This tip is why I have a bazilion skirts like this in my wardrobe.

Do you have a sewing construction tip that was a ‘Dah, why didn’t I think of that?’ moment that changed your world?

Until next time, happy sewing.

-Dana

 

 

 

2 Comments

  1. Virginia B

    On your most recent post, what was it about the blouse that made it fit well without any darts? If you usually use darts what made you decide to go without? Were you after a looser fit this time? Did you do any alterations to the pattern pieces?

    Reply
    • Dana

      Virginia- To answer your question about fit, I would say that I selected this style of shirt without darts for the looser fit without it looking like a man’s shirt. It still fits close to the body, has a more casual look than what I call a tailored shirt (darts, princess seams, back darts, etc), and can be tied at the waist due to a bit more fabric. For me, it is just right. The only alteration I did, if you can call it that, is to grade out at the hip line to the largest size and then adjust after trying it on. There are many button down shirt patterns out there yet to try and there may be a new one that will become my TNT. THAT is the fun of sewing; finding the next favorite pattern!!
      Thank you for asking thoughtful questions. 🙂

      Reply

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